Recently in Oltrarno / Santo Spirito Category

If you find yourself near Santa Maria del Carmine around lunch time you should try I'Brindellone (the "brindellone" is the cart of St. John which is used in an elaborate fire works display during Easter mass).

While it may not look like much from the outside, I'Brindellone is a real authentic Florentine trattoria and we have had excellent and reasonable lunches there over the years - and dinners! It is located on the north side of the street in Piazza Piatellina, two minutes west of the church. Highlights were ravioli with butter and sage, penne all'amatriciana, osso bucco, and some wonderful desserts, especially tiramisu cream, with tiny cookies. The house red was good too. The staff is very nice and they have some very interesting pictures on the walls of old Florence and the Calcio in Costume, as well as a ton of Fiorentina (the soccer or "football" team) memorabilia.

Note: this is a real "trattoria", it is not fine dining - it is casual, fast, and inexpensive - as they say themselves: "Trattoria tipica Fiorentina, dal gusto semplice e genuino!!!" (A typical Florentine trattoria, with simple and genuine flavors!!!).

Here is Trattoria I'Brindellone on the map:

Enoteca Le volpi e l'uva (The fox and the grapes) is one of our favorite hidden gems not just in Florence, but in the whole of the world. The only thing that keeps this charming spot from not being completely overrun with tourists is the fact that it is tucked away in a tiny piazza just off the main tourism thoroughfare that runs from the Ponte Vecchio to the Palazzo Pitti.

It really isn't all that secret - you will find it in most guide books and on many websites and Top 10 lists - but somehow it seems to maintain its sense of a being an "off the beaten path" kind of place that only certain people have knowledge of.

So what makes Le volpi e l'uva so special? Like most places in Florence that are worth pointing out, it's the wine, the food, and the people. The selection of wine is for the most part reasonably priced and has been hunted out, sometimes exclusively, by the owners (who are also the people behind the counter). You are assured to get a quality glass here at a great price - and you can also find some unique French wines (rare in Florence!). Then there is their fantastic selection of Italian and French cheeses, along with various panini, bruschetta, salamis, etc. (but keep in mind, this is an enoteca, not a full service restaurant - don't come here looking for pizza and pasta.)

All of this is served up in the friendliest manner by the small staff who are always ready to make a suggestion to the beginning wine drinker or share some interesting facts about the wine and food being served. Our favorite thing here (well, one of them!) is the "Quattro Formaggio Francese" - their selection of four French cheeses (see the photo above), that comes with some radicchio and sliced tomatoes, as well as a basket of bread. We usually add a bottle of Vouvray from France too.

If you want to while some time away in a quiet corner of Florence and enjoy something special, we highly recommend enoteca Le volpi e l'uva.

Here is a neat video of wine bars in Florence - the first one is Ciro from Le volpi e l'uva:

Le volpi e l'uva on the map:

Il Santo Bevitore is not just a trendy restaurant - it is a very good one - with ample reason. The food is excellent, the prices are very reasonable for the center of Florence, the wine list is solid and fair, and the service is professional. Reservations are always recommended, as it can be full even on weeknights. We have had both lunch and dinner here on several occasions, and I can't think of a complaint. The atmosphere is friendly and casual and there are a couple of rooms, one closer to the bar, and a smaller one that is a bit more quiet.

As to the highlights, please see the photos below (taken in May of 2011, but we recently checked with friends who told us the restaurant is better than ever!). To me one of the most attractive aspects of Il Santo Bevitore is that the fare is not just traditional Tuscan. It is inventive and also features a lot of seafood, like raw Branzino and crispy grilled octopus. Also below the starters of purple cabbage soup and tortelli with artichokes, and desserts of rum cream and coconut crème brûlée with gelato. This meal with cover and a very nice bottle of Terlaner Terlano (a white blend) was under € 100 (in 2011).

A newer and welcome restaurant in San Frediano, iO Osteria Personale offers an upscale and unique menu, with new twists on classic dishes - like carpaccio di manzo with pecorino gelato, tartare of Ricciola on a bed of ricotta topped with spinach, and an amazing chocolate soufflà© topped with dollop of olive oil and a pinch of salt, accompanied by basil gelato with a tomato based sauce. It is all extremely well done in a minimal but comfortable and quiet room, with attentive service and a very nice wine list. Their 4 or 5 course tasting menus are a perfect introduction to a unique restaurant you will no doubt want to return to every time you are in Florence.

LOCATION: Borgo San Frediano 167r, Firenze
TELEPHONE: 055 9331341
EMAIL: [email protected]

In 1995 the Trattoria Quattro Leoni was rebuilt and enlarged by the clever architect Saverio Innocenti. The Trattoria reopened increasing its Tuscan spirit with its wooden-beam ceilings, stone walls, brick red arches and cotto pavements. The rooms are furnished after the Tuscan tradition: a sober and refined style with straw-bottomed chairs, marble square tables, bunches of withered flowers and laurel hanging on the wall. Passera is wonderful: during this season it is possible to eat outside under a white awning and surrounded by scented laurel-pots and handcraft shops that since many centuries are the virtue of this quarter.

Stefano di Puccio is the actual manager of the Quattro Leoni. He is well known in the city not only for his past activity as a player of the Historical Florentine Soccer, but also for his inclination to cooking, his sincere hospitality and he is a very nice guy.

When welcoming you to the table there will be the delicious appetizers: deep in oil, hot cheesy terrine, artichokes hearts with cheese cream, bresaola and truffle oil, zucchini with stracchino and bresaola and many other things. From the kitchen, many first courses, steak grigliata and tagliate come out with the real Tuscan tradition creating a marvelous menu that varies and is enriched day by day.

LOCATION: Via de' Vellutini 1r , Piazza della Passera, Firenze
TELEPHONE:(39) 055 218562
EMAIL: [email protected]

One of Florence's favorite trattorias, Mamma Gina offers an assortment of traditional, mouthwatering soups, appetizers, pasta and grilled specialties, including the unforgettable florentine steak. The excellent service and ambiance contribute to it's fame.

LOCATION: Borgo San Jacopo, 37r, Firenze
TELEPHONE:(39) 055 239 6009
EMAIL: [email protected]

In the heart of the old Florence, steps from the Arno river, the inviting and typically Florentine ambiance of Trattoria Dante offers cuisine that always uses the freshest ingredients and in season products.

The atmosphere of the past, pizza from a wood burning oven, traditional Tuscan recipes and Florentine influences, a stone cellar full of the best Tuscan wines, a daily and seasonal menu, all complimented by an always cordial greeting. Fresh fish and other delicacies from the sea arrive daily from the seaside. The fresco of Dante and Beatrice, painted on the dining room wall, will watch over you as you dine in the warm candlelight.

LOCATION: Piazza Nazario Sauro 12r, Firenze
TELEPHONE:(39) 055 219219
EMAIL: [email protected]

This trattoria, located near Piazza Santo Spirito, is among the most famous and popular trattorias in Florence. The menu varies daily from a selection of freshly prepared traditional Tuscan dishes which are priced economically and served in generous portions.

LOCATION: Via de' Michelozzi 9-red, Firenze
TELEPHONE:(39) 055 21 86 24
EMAIL: [email protected]

Borgo Antico is a popular spot to dine in the heart of the Oltrarno. During the summer, eat outside amongst the enchantment of Piazza Santo Sprito and enjoy large portion sizes of the various menu selections. Between the appetizers, meats, pastas, pizzas, homemade desserts, and a variety of salads, the dishes are prepared with fresh ingredients and served pleasantly.

LOCATION: Piazza di Santo Spirito, 6-red, Firenze
TELEPHONE:(39) 055 21 04 37
EMAIL: [email protected]

In St. Felicita square near Ponte Vecchio you can find Restaurant Bibo. Florence's typical dishes with an open garden and air conditioning. All credit cards are welcome.

LOCATION: Piazza di Santa Felicita, 6, Firenze
TELEPHONE:(39) 055 2398554
EMAIL: [email protected]