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Santa Felicita

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The barred windows above the arches in front of Santa Felicita are part of the Vasari Corridor

A Hidden Gem of History and Art

Nestled in the Oltrarno district of Florence, just a stone's throw away from the Ponte Vecchio, the Church of Santa Felicita stands as one of the city's most historically and artistically significant churches. Despite its somewhat modest exterior, this church is home to remarkable artworks and has a rich history dating back to early Christianity in Florence. Even though it is so close to the Pitti Palace and the Ponte Vecchio, it's smaller size and being slightly tucked away off a small square means that very few tourists ever venture inside - and so they miss one of the greatest paintings in Florence that can still be seen for free, and without waiting in a line.

A Brief History

Santa Felicita is one of the oldest churches in Florence, with origins tracing back to at least the 4th century when it was established as a Christian site on the remains of a Roman cemetery. The present structure, however, has undergone multiple renovations, with the most notable one occurring in the 18th century under the direction of architect Ferdinando Ruggieri, who gave it its current Baroque appearance.

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The interior of the Church of Santa Felicita

One of the most historically significant aspects of Santa Felicita is its connection to the powerful Medici family. The church's location along the Vasari Corridor - a secret passageway commissioned by Grand Duke Cosimo I de' Medici--allowed the ruling family to attend religious services from a private balcony without mingling with the general public.

Artistic Treasures

While the exterior of Santa Felicita may seem unassuming, the interior houses an array of stunning artworks. One of the church's greatest treasures is the Capponi Chapel, designed by the famed Renaissance artist and architect Filippo Brunelleschi. However, the chapel's true masterpiece is the cycle of paintings by Jacopo Pontormo, one of the leading figures of Mannerism.

Pontormo's frescoes and altarpiece in the Capponi Chapel, including the mesmerizing Deposition from the Cross (1525-1528), are considered some of the most expressive works of Mannerist art. Characterized by vivid colors, elongated figures, and a dreamlike atmosphere, this masterpiece marks a departure from the balanced compositions of the High Renaissance and showcases Pontormo's innovative artistic vision.

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Pontormo's Deposition From the Cross, (1525-8) Capponi Chapel Church of Santa Felicita, Florence

This painting was restored in 2018, the Friends of Florence website has some great photographs of the process.

Additionally, the church is home to paintings by other renowned artists such as Francesco Morandini (Il Poppi) and works from the 16th and 17th centuries that enhance its artistic prestige, including one of my favorite depictions of the Martyrdom of Saint Sebastian, by Fabrizio Boschi, which is probably overlooked by being a Baroque work in a Renaissance city.

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The Martyrdom of Saint Sebastian, by Fabrizio Boschi, 1617

Other Interesting Facts

  • The Vasari Corridor Connection: The Medici family's private balcony still exists within the church, a testament to their influence and control over Florence's religious and political life.
  • Martyrdom of Saint Felicity: The church is dedicated to Saint Felicity, a 2nd-century Christian martyr who, according to legend, was executed along with her seven sons for refusing to renounce her faith.
  • A Tranquil Escape: Unlike the heavily visited landmarks of Florence, Santa Felicita offers a more serene atmosphere, making it a perfect spot for art lovers and history enthusiasts seeking a quiet retreat.

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The commune of Florence sign outside the church

The Church of Santa Felicita is a must-visit for anyone interested in Florence's deep artistic and historical roots. With its connections to the Medici family, its breathtaking Pontormo frescoes, and its status as one of the city's oldest religious sites, it remains a hidden gem that rewards those who step inside its hallowed walls. Whether you are drawn by history, art, or simply the allure of Florence's lesser-known treasures, Santa Felicita is a place well worth exploring.

Here is a really good video about Santa Felicita (in Italian):


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