There's no pasta and no grilled meat -- can this be Tuscany? Rest assured that while Fabio Picchi's culinary creations are a bit out of the ordinary, most are based on antique recipes. Cibrà¨o actually has a split personality; this is a review not of the trattoria branch across the street, but of the fan-cooled main restaurant room, full of intellectual babble, where the elegance is in the substance of the food and the service, not in surface appearances. Waiters pull up a chair to explain the list of daily specials, and those garlands of hot peppers hanging in the kitchen window are a hint at the cook's favorite spice. All the food is spectacular, and dishes change regularly, but if they're available try the yellow pepper soup drizzled with olive oil; the soufflà© of potatoes and ricotta spiced and served with pecorino shavings and ragà¹; or the roasted duck stuffed with minced beef, raisins, and pinoli.