La Reggia degli Etruschi

Perched in the hills of Fiesole with sweeping views over Florence and the Arno valley, La Reggia degli Etruschi is the kind of place you bring guests when you want to remind them -- and yourself -- just how absurdly beautiful this part of the world can be. The building has its own history to recommend it: a former monastery turned tearoom turned one of the more coveted dinner reservations on the hillside. The terrace, spread across two levels and framed by flowers and greenery, is the obvious destination when the weather cooperates -- though the interior, with its terracotta floors and heavy wooden ceiling beams, is no consolation prize.

The kitchen is run by Leonardo, who also oversees one of the more thoughtfully assembled wine cellars in the area, stocked with serious Tuscan bottles including Tignanello and Sassicaia. The food stays rooted in Florentine tradition but moves around a little -- carpaccio dressed with arugula, parmesan, and mango; gnocchetti with Roquefort and white pepper; bistecca Fiorentina for those who understand what Fiesole beef is capable of. The panorama is doing a fair amount of the heavy lifting, as it always will up here, but the kitchen earns its share of the credit. Don't be in a hurry to leave.