November in Florence : Novembre a Firenze

Flood waters in Piazza Santa Trìnita, November 4, 1966

Florence begins and ends November with two very different events: the remembrance of one of the city's worst tragedies, the epic Flood of November 4, 1966, and the lively Firenze Marathon near the end of the month. This year is a big one for the first - November 4, 2026 marks 60 years since the Arno broke its banks - and the Marathon runs on Sunday, November 29.

The German Christmas Market at night. This shot was from the first apartment we had in Florence.

In between there is the annual olive harvest in Tuscany, and plenty of chances to taste the first fresh pressings of the year. One of the best is the Rassegna dell'Olio di Reggello, now called ReOlio. It used to take place in Piazza Santa Croce but is now held in Reggello itself, at the Palazzetto dello Sport. The 53rd edition runs October 30 to November 1, 2026, so it overlaps only the first day of the month.

November also brings the White Truffle Market (Mostra Mercato Nazionale del Tartufo Bianco) to the hilltop town of San Miniato, on the last three weekends of the month: November 14-15, 21-22 and 28-29, 2026 (event details here).

Depending on the year, the ceremonies marking the anniversary of the flood can be quite large (like the 40th in 2006) or so low-key it is hard to find out what is happening unless you read Italian. The 60th is one of the big years. On November 4 a Mass in the Basilica of Santa Croce at 9 a.m., presided over by Cardinal Gualtiero Bassetti, is followed at 10:15 a.m. by a procession to the Ponte alle Grazie, where a wreath is laid in the Arno at 10:30 a.m. President Sergio Mattarella attends the official ceremony in the Salone dei Cinquecento of Palazzo Vecchio at 4:30 p.m., and the day closes with evening events including a concert at the Mandela Forum. The exhibition "Firenze per il mondo, il mondo per Firenze" is open in the Sala d'Arme of Palazzo Vecchio from November 4 to 22. The city has published the full program of commemorations (in Italian). For the history of the flood, the Mud Angels and the restoration of the damaged art, see our sister site florence-flood.com.

What you will probably see all over town are shop owners hanging their photos from that day, especially in the hardest-hit areas like Santa Croce and Piazza dei Ciompi.

Runners in the Florence Marathon crossing Piazza Duomo

As to the Firenze Marathon on Sunday, November 29 - if you plan to enjoy it, remember one thing: stay out of the way! The course passes the Duomo, Piazza della Signoria and the Ponte Vecchio and finishes in Piazza Santa Croce. If you are just visiting, draw a circle around the date: the town is pretty much shut down. You can forget about driving anywhere until well after dark, and most of the streets in and around the center are closed for several hours starting early in the morning. Use public transport where available, or plan to spend the whole day either in the city or out of it.

Another international cultural event is the 27th Festival Giapponese at the Centro Rogers (Piazzale della Resistenza) in Scandicci, on Saturday and Sunday, November 21-22, from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. both days. It offers a wide sampling of Japanese culture, crafts and food; entry is a suggested minimum donation of €3, and children up to ten get in free.

And the Christmas Market in Piazza Santa Croce opens on November 14 and runs through December 20, 2026, from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday and until 11 p.m. Friday through Sunday.

Don't forget to bring your umbrella in November, and something warm to wear - the weather can change quickly this time of year, and the rain can be torrential!